Jackson Hole, WY
Wyoming is a wonderland. So much to do, so much to see, so much open space. The town of Jackson retains a rustic Old West vibe, while Jackson Hole’s Teton Village is its more sophisticated sibling of sorts. While the area is known for its skiing, late summer is a magnificent time to visit and explore the mountain sans snow, or at least significantly less of it. Mere miles from Grand Teton National Park, your outdoor adventures are only limited by your ability. Which you absolutely should be honest with yourself about; there are some serious hikes out there, but also alternatives for the less athletic.
Jackson itself is remarkably quaint. Nestled in the valley, it was founded by mountain men and trappers in the early 1800s, in an area long populated by Native Americans. Its namesake, David Edward Jackson, was a famous trapper and fur trader from West Virginia. After several harrowing encounters and Jeremiah Johnson like adventures, Jackson died on Christmas Eve 1837 of Typhoid Fever, at the age of 49. Nearly 60 years later, in 1894, the little town in the valley would assume his name.
With the days of trapping and trading long gone, Jackson has had to reinvent itself over the years. However, with all that natural beauty and skiing, it wasn’t too difficult. In addition to dude ranches and winter sports, Jackson is famous for its Town Square antler arches, located on the four corners of what was formerly known as George Washington Memorial Park. The antlers are shed in the winter by male elks in the nearby refuge, then collected by local Boy Scouts. Each arch contains about 2000 antlers, which must be replaced about about every 50 years. New arches replace the old, with the old auctioned off to fund construction. The final original arch was sold in 2015 for $21,750, but for anyone anxious for an antler arch of their own, another should be available in 2056.
Perhaps just as iconic as the arches is the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. Located in a 1934 building originally known as Ruby’s Cafe and Beer Garden, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar dates back to 1936 when the property was purchased by local rancher and moonshiner, Ben Goe. Goe spent months remodeling the building, which included the addition of miles of knobbled pine and a new bar inlaid with silver dollars. With fate smiling upon him, Goe’s Cowboy Bar was awarded the first liquor license in the state of Wyoming following the repeal of prohibition. Goe later sold the bar to Preston Parkinson in the 1940s, who bestowed the bar with its present name, and added the iconic neon sign that still graces the building today. The bar’s famous saddle stools were added in the 70s, furthering its Wild West image. Still fun after all these years, no trip to Jackson is complete without a stop at the legendary watering hole. Before leaving town make sure to stop by the Wort Hotel as well, which in addition to walls of Western art has its very own Silver Dollar Bar, constructed in 1950 of 2032 uncirculated Morgan Silver Dollars from the Denver mint.
At the base of Rendezvous Mountain, in the valley known as Jackson Hole, is Teton Village. With several hotels and restaurants, as well as stunning views, this is a perfect place to stay for mountain exploration. We stayed at the Snake River Lodge, which had a rustic charm. The room also had two doors, only one of which could be opened with a key, making it very easy to find yourself outside your room with the safety chain still engaged. Which we did. Along with many other people. Fortunately they are prepared and have bolt cutters.
For the intrepid and fit, it is possible to hike to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. For all others, there is a tram which will deliver you to the top in just 12 minutes, ascending 4139 feet. At the summit there are a multitude of hiking trails for all skill levels, including a stunning descent down the mountain. In addition to the breathtaking views of the Tetons and the valley below, there are also waffles, that people apparently love. I cannot speak to the waffles, but the views are outstanding.
With an elevation of over 10,000 feet, snow remains on the highest peaks throughout the summer, even as wildflowers bloom below. After enjoying the panoramic views from the Top of the World trail, take the 7.4 mile Summit Trail back down to Teton Village.
While it is infinitely easier than hiking to the top of the mountain, the hike is still strenuous, with many stretches lacking any shade. It is also obscenely beautiful, and something you will never forget. Certainly not in the following days, as your legs will remind you of your adventure every time you move.
Following the service road, the high reaches give way to wildflower filled meadows below. Switchbacks make the steep descent somewhat easier, but loose rock makes for slow going in places. The spring and summer snow melt provides you with several scenic streams, as well as glimpses of animals hanging out by the watering holes, which are mostly marmots at the higher elevations.
As you wind your way down the mountain, you are greeted around every bend with outstanding views. And the quiet solitude so often missing today. We only encountered a handful of people during out descent, among them a very pregnant woman with a baby on her back hiking up the mountain, which still amazes me.
Despite the beauty, you will be glad to see the vegetation change that indicates lower elevations. Depending on your pace, the hike will take around three hours before you reach the valley below, and the last forested mile. The village is a welcome sight indeed, and the perfect place to enjoy a post hike beer. We look forward to returning one day in the winter for skiing, although having seen some of the expert runs sans snow, I’ll probably be sticking to the blue trails.
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