Keswick Hall- Keswick, VA

Keswick Hall is a charming historic hotel, located on a country estate in rural Virginia. It has an impressive golf course, beautiful grounds, and an obscenely good restaurant. However, it will always be known to me as the place with the pool. One of the most beautiful infinity pools ever constructed, to be exact, which perfectly reflects the beauty of the surrounding countryside, as well as the Italianate mansion.

Constructed in 1912 as a private residence for Robert Crawford, the 8000 square foot, two story stucco clad villa was designed by architect Eugene Bradbury. Costing $100,000, the 17 room Villa Crawford contained silver light fixtures, crystal chandeliers, ornate molding, fancy fireplaces, and of course a grand staircase. Sadly, things did not end will for the Crawford’s, who divorced in 1919, shortly before Robert was found dead in a Baltimore hotel room. Over the next 35 years the Villa would have 5 different owners, one of which never lived there, and another who was forced to sell the property and 311 acres for $30,000. In 1948 the property was converted to a country club, and the Villa was used as its clubhouse.

The country club prospered throughout the 1950s and 1960s, with more than 700 members during its salad days. But the tides turned when owner Knox Turnbull, possessor of an obscenely quintessential rich name, died, and the club began a slow, sad, two decade decline. The property was largely abandoned by the 1980s, and the proud property fell into disrepair.

Before all was lost however, Sir Bernard Ashley waltzed in and purchased the decrepit property in 1990. The widower of the famous floral textile designer Laura Ashley bought the mansion and 600 acres with the intent of turning it into a country house hotel. He spent over $25 million dollars to renovate and expand the property. Rooms were individually decorated with antiques and original paintings, many gifted from the knighted one’s private collection.  The Arnold Palmer designed course opened in 1992, followed by a tennis pavilion in 1997. The impossibly beautiful heated infinity pool followed in 2003.

Today, the hotel is owned by Historic Hotels of Albemarle. A few things have changed, Pete Dye redesigned the course to much acclaim and a tavern was added, but much stays the same. The rooms are ridiculously plush and comfortable, high end toiletries are offered, and of course there is turn down service complete with sweets.

The common areas are beautiful, there is a cozy tavern, an antique slate pool table, and an exceptional restaurant. It is beyond expensive to stay here, but there are deals to be had if you look long enough. Going off season is definitely more reasonable, and that wonderful pool is heated, so you can comfortably take a dip in any weather. It was about 20 when we were there, but heavenly in the pool. Well, until we had to get out. But still.

Staying at Keswick Hall really does feel like staying at a country estate. It is a perfect getaway, where you can relax, have a stroll around the grounds, play some golf, then have an excellent dinner. It is close to Charlottesville, and a short drive to James Madison’s Montpelier, which is a wonderful historical stop with some interesting architecture of its own. Be prepared to be charmed by Dolly Madison, the hostess with the mostess.