Kykuit- Sleepy Hollow, NY

The Hudson Valley is full of grand mansions built by last century’s titans of industry. Before income taxes and antitrust laws, family fortunes were obscene, and these homes stand to prove it. Kykuit, one of the many homes of John D. Rockefeller, is everything you would expect it to be. It is also a fabulous way to spend a few hours.

Completed in 1913, the granite Georgian mansion sits amid stunning formal gardens. Construction took over six years, largely because Rockefeller was displeased with the first iteration, and requested it be substantially rebuilt before moving in. He also took umbrage with Frederick Law Olmsted’s landscape design for the gardens, so we can assume he was a very particular man. He was also a devout Baptist, who didn’t drink or dance, and shunned ostentatious displays of wealth. Apparently only mansions with over 40 rooms are flashy.

Perched high above the Hudson, with magnificent river views, Kykuit, the Dutch word for lookout, was to act as a country estate for the oil tycoon. A respite from the city, it would not only act as a retreat, but as a place to house the family’s extensive art collection. In fact, the vestibule was designed to show off T’ang dynasty tomb figures, which were intended to let visitors know the Rockefellers were serious art collectors.

The house contains 40 rooms over six stories, with 20 bedrooms. Even the Grand Tour does not cover all this ground. The Classic Tour quickly visits JDR’s office, a lovely walnut paneled affair, a drawing room where the MOMA was conceived, a music room, the butlers pantry-complete with annuciator, the dining room, and an amazing pass through with a view of the river. The music room was modified after construction with an oculus, which opened up the ceiling to the second floor, which is one of the architectural highlights of the mansion.

After the Olmstead firm was summarily dismissed, William Welles Bosworth was enlisted to create the property’s gardens. Designed in the Beaux Arts style, they are considered Bosworth’s best work in the United States. Terraces, over 40 fountains, and classical sculptures combine to create a showpiece of landscape architecture. Highlights include the Morning Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Japanese Tea House, a Temple of Aphrodite, and a large Oceanus Fountain.

The Oceanus, located in the front of the mansion is a replica of a 1576 fountain created for the Boboli Gardens in Florence, Italy. It is magnificent piece, and my personal favorite fountain located on the property. The manse entrance is awash with lovely fountains, water features, statuary, and Tiffany creations, including the glass Porte Cochere.

The rear is a collection of gardens on different elevations, each with its own personality. Closest to the house, the upper gardens are classic, European spaces. Allées lead to magnificent statuary and outbuildings, including the Temple of Aphrodite, a staple on all grand estates.

Another prominent feature of the upper garden is the Japanese Tea House, created for JDR’s wife to entertain her friends. Apparently one could not do that in a 40 room mansion. It is fronted by a beautiful marble fountain, which gracefully spills into a race that cuts across the southern yard.

The upper level also yields the best views of the terraced gardens below, which include a pool, several more Japanese structures, as well as statuary.

There are also wonderful views of the Hudson River, as well as the Palisades. The land atop the Palisades was actually purchased by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., and donated to the State of New York, to preserve the view from the house.

The tour also covers the lower level modern art gallery of Nelson Rockefeller, containing pieces by Picasso, Chagall and Warhol, among others. There is also a large collection of tapestries of Picasso’s work, which were commissioned by Nelson, and hand woven by Jacqueline de la Baume Durrbach, in consultation with Picasso himself.

Of course no pictures are permitted inside the house, but no worries, the landscape provides ample photographic opportunities. Sadly, you are also not permitted to wonder the grounds unaccompanied, and many areas are off limits, but you do get to hit the highlights. There is a three hour tour that is a bit more comprehensive, if you have the time.

The final stop on the Classic Tour is the original stable and carriage house, which is enormous. While no horses currently reside in the building, their stalls are still present, as well as tack, and carriages. Several of the Rockefeller’s classic cars are on display, which you will be allotted time for a quick peek before your shuttle picks you up.

For those who love architecture, you are bound to be a bit disappointed, as the emphasis is definitely on the the art. That said, it is still a wonderful historic structure, and the grounds and mansion are exquisite.