Nelsonville, OH
I absolutely adore small towns with public squares. Compact, walkable towns, full of fabulous old architecture. I prefer to find them thriving, but honestly the last fifty years have not been kind to Main Street America. Sometimes the best you can hope for is a glimpse of their more prosperous past, a few historical plaques, and a dusty antique store. Towns in Appalachia have been particularly hard hit, suffering from both the loss of industry and population. While some towns have all but rolled up the sidewalks, things are looking up for Nelsonville, Ohio, an impossibly quaint town just outside the tourist mecca of Hocking Hills.
Founded in 1814, Nelsonville was once a thriving mining community. In addition to coal, the area’s clay rich soil supported a booming brick industry, which further bolstered the prosperity of the small town. In 1830, Thomas Dew built the town’s first hotel, a two story brick structure, complete with a tavern. Over the years, the hotel attracted quite a distinguished crowd; Presidents McKinley, Roosevelt (Teddy), Taft and Harding all addressed crowds from the front balcony. Although the hotel has long since closed, the tavern remains open, and has changed little over the years. Aptly called “The Mine,” the dark dive retains many original Victorian details, such as pressed tin tiles on the walls and ceiling.
As the Industrial era progressed, mining increased, as did the town’s profile. In addition to the hotel, in 1879 an opera house opened on the square, signaling to all Nelsonville had arrived. Showcasing international acts, the venue later hosted theatrical productions as well as Vaudeville shows before closing in 1924. The theater then sat empty for over 50 years; ironically, just as preservationists started to restore the building, it was nearly destroyed by a devastating fire. Undeterred, preservation efforts began anew. While it took almost 17 years to complete, today the restored Stuart’s Opera House is open, hosting live performances once again.
The square’s signature fountain was installed in 1904, by the town’s Young Women’s Temperance Union; I assume they did not discuss the project over drinks at the tavern. Costing over $1000, it was a sign of the town’s continuing prosperity. Indeed, that same year the town’s own Nelsonville Block, a waterproof paving brick, won first place at the World’s Fair in St. Louis, in a building materials competition.
However, tides turn quickly, and fortunes are easily erased. As the use of concrete increased, the demand for brick decreased. Although the Nelsonville Brick Company limped along, its death blow was delivered by The Great Depression; the factory was shuttered in 1937, leaving many in the town unemployed. During this time, the fabulous fountain was turned off, and planted with flowers. A few short years later, its elegant top tier would be removed and donated to a scrap iron drive during World War II. Fortunately, the fountain was later restored by the Garden Club in 1957, at a cost of $3500. Three times the cost of the original fountain.
Before long, mining would also disappear, leaving the area largely without an industry to support its residents. Stores were shuttered, and people moved on. Those that remained sought to revitalize their battered small town, which fortunately still had good architectural bones. The Opera house reopened, along with several art studios. The fountain was restored to its former glory. The local college even opened an upscale restaurant right on the square, featuring local Appalachian cuisine prepared by student chefs. No, squirrel does not appear on the menu.
While the town no longer has a hotel, it does have several small inns close to the square. We stayed at The Little B, which was nothing short of spectacular. A sophisticated space, in a beautifully restored Spanish Revival doctor’s office, its location is convenient to everything in the area; also, it is far more charming than the soulless chain hotels located in Logan. Although it may be too small and sleepy for some, Nelsonville is perfect for those exploring Hocking Hills, as well as those who like to time travel.
