Niagara Falls- NY,CAN

I absolutely love waterfalls. I have risked life and limb to access remote cascades, with no regrets. In theory I should have loved Niagara Falls; after all, three massive waterfalls straddling an international border sounds downright heavenly. And it should be, but it’s not. I cannot argue the falls aren’t impressive, because they absolutely are. They are downright beautiful, and awe inspiring. Too bad about everything else. The American side is downright sketchy; while safer, the Canadian side is a collection of tacky boardwalk attractions. What a absolute shame. It is still worth a trip, just make it a short one.

A product of ice age glaciation, the falls have been flowing for over 10,000 years. They began impressing people as soon as they arrived on the scene. Non-Native written accounts date back to 1604, when Samuel de Champlain first explored the area. The first known painting of the falls was done in 1762, by a British Army surveyor. As early as 1801 Niagara was considered a honeymoon destination. It wasn’t long before the secret was out.

To cater to the increasing number of tourists, stairs were built down to the base of Horseshoe Falls in 1818, followed in 1832 by a scenic tunnel that offered a glimpse behind the water. By 1846, the famous Maid of the Mist was ferrying eager passengers to the base of the Falls, for what was surely an unforgettable experience.

By the early 20th century, Niagara was known as the Honeymoon Capital of the World. Its popularity further swelled as automobile ownership grew; several bridges were constructed, making the area easily accessible. And then, in 1953, Marilyn Monroe made a movie set in Niagara. As you can imagine, this increased tourism even more. But not for long. As times and tastes changed, visitation dropped. Attractions were then added to lure people to the area, including amusement parks, wax museums and casinos. A Honeymoon Capital no more, it morphed into an Atlantic City of sorts.

So while all of that is pretty bleak, it is absolutely still worth it to go see the Falls. They are every bit as breathtaking as they were hundreds of years ago, it is just the surrounding area that declined. Absolutely stay one night on the Canadian side, preferably at the Marriott Fallsview. Get a room with a view- it is magnificent day and night, and worth the additional expense. It is downright peaceful to gaze out over the Falls, high above the traffic and ever present crowds.

While on the Canadian side, do not miss the SkyWheel. Revolving since 2006, the 175 foot Ferris Wheel offers outstanding aerial views of the area. Situated so you can see both sides of the Falls, as well as the river, it is worth the price of admission. Yes, it is a tourist attraction, but at least its focus is what you came to see.

Round a SkyWheel spin out with a Maid of the Mist voyage, followed by a Journey Behind the Falls; you have now hit all the highlights. If you want to stay another day, drive down to Niagara-On-The-Lake, which is legitimately beautiful. A village of restored Victorians on Lake Ontario, it is everything Niagara Falls should be. You can even take a Jet Boat up the Niagara River to the famous Niagara Whirlpool, which you should absolutely do. If you prefer to stay dry, there is a 1916 cable car that traverses the area. Yes, touristy, but not trashy.

On the American Side, there is a park with several observation decks, and an elevator that will take you down to the base of the Falls, if it is working. It was not when we visited. Or should I say, it stopped working after we wasted over an hour waiting to board. The park was obscenely crowded, and not very clean. I am not sure which side is more disappointing, dirty or developed. I suppose it should act as a cautionary tale either way. So, while the river keeps flowing, and the tourists keep coming, the magic has largely been lost.

 

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