Sonnenberg Gardens- Canandaigua, NY

The gardens at Sonnenberg State Historic Park are without a doubt the most stunning and impressive I have ever visited. It is impossible not to be transfixed and awestruck by the sprawling property, which is home to a collection of breathtaking Gilded Age gardens. A work of true genius, you may never want to leave.

Built in stages by various landscape architects working for Mary Clark Thompson, the gardens were a living memorial to her husband, Frederick, who died in 1899. Mrs. Thompson, herself an avid gardener, sought to recreate the famous gardens of the world at her New York Estate. Any one of these gardens would be spectacular on their own; combined they are nothing short of magnificent. To wander between these brilliant spaces is downright divine.

Built in 1906, the Japanese Garden is one of the oldest on the estate. It is also considered the first private traditional Japanese garden in North America. In just six months, the Japanese designer and his team of workers transformed an old orchard into a serene miniature mountain landscape, dotted with bridges, lily ponds, and statues. Two years later they returned and constructed a teahouse, modeled after one found in Kyoto.

Just past the Japanese Garden Torri gate are the ruins of the 1914 Neo-classical swimming pool, known as the Roman Bath, created by architect Francis Allen. Lined with turquoise English tile, the impressive pool was filled with filtered and heated water from nearby Canandaigua Lake. Although time has not been kind to the pool pavilion, glimpses of its former grandeur remain.

Just through the evergreen grove, past the ruins of the Temple of Diana, is the secret Sub-Rosa Garden, which is very easy to miss. It is secret after all. Completed in 1907, the secluded space is a classic enclosed garden room. Surrounded by hedges, there are no flashy flowers here; rather, layers of verdant vegetation surround a tranquil marble fountain.

Just outside the secret garden, you catch your first glimpse of the Thompson’s gorgeous Queen Anne mansion, surrounded by the oldest of the estate’s gardens. Created in 1903, the Italian Garden is an extension of the grand home, with a central pathway leading directly to the library. Enclosed by brownstone balustrades, four sunken gardens are planted with a colorful collection of annuals. It is perhaps most impressive when viewed from the second story porch.

Surrounding the mansion itself is a collection of specialized gardens, including a Blue & White Garden, which as the name suggests, only contains blue and white flowers, such as larkspur and hyacinth. There is also a Pansy Garden, as well as a Moonlight Garden, filled with silvery flowers, best viewed at night. In 1906, a substantial rose garden was added behind the mansion, containing over 5000 plantings. A two story summerhouse, or Belvedere, offers views of the flower beds from above; sadly the structure is no longer stable, and closed to the public.

In true Victorian fashion, in 1902 a substantial stone Peacock house was built adjacent to the mansion. If that is not obscene enough, records indicate over $20,000 was spent on the purchase of birds alone. Which is just absolutely bananas. Surrounded by low gardens today, it is often used for wedding ceremonies.

Just past the Peacock House is perhaps the most intriguing of the estate gardens. Created between 1910 and 1920 as three separate spaces, the Rock Garden is an absolute dream. A stone walkway leads you through a limestone canyon, deep into the surrounding alpine forest.

Dappled and drowsy, the path leads to a summerhouse plucked straight from a Fairy Tale. Without a doubt it is one the most stunning built landscapes I have ever encountered. Downright magical and surreal, it is not a place you will soon forget.

Exiting the Rock Garden you are greeted by the rolling South Lawn, which contains several original specimen trees. Here, across the grassy expanse, is an excellent view of the Queen Anne mansion. Further along the trail, a serene lily pond reflects the surrounding landscape, reminiscent of a Monet painting.

At the end of the path stands the 1903 Lord & Burnham Conservatory and Greenhouse complex. At over 13,000 square feet, the complex includes a large central palm house as well as several separate flower specific structures. Again, an absolute dream.

Before you leave, make sure to stop off at the cafe, located in a small cottage on the estate grounds. There is also a wine tasting room, featuring product from over 40 Finger Lake wineries, if you have the time and don’t have to drive. An all around solid stop, I look forward to returning one day.