The Red Lion Inn- Stockbridge, MA
There are only a handful of hotels in the United States that date back to the 1700s. Chances are, if you stumble upon one, it will be in New England. Perhaps one of the most well known is The Red Lion Inn. Possibly the most quintessential historic inn in the country, it certainly has everything you would expect to find in an old hostelry. Impossibly charming, it has all the hallmarks of a building that has grown organically over time, including an interesting floor plan, sloping floors, and an antique collection that rivals the contents of many museums.
The original inn dates back to 1773, when Silas and Anna Bingham established a general store on the rural road that connected Boston to Albany. Early customer’s included Ethan Allen’s Green Mountain Boys, who stopped in for supplies on their way to Fort Ticonderoga, where they would overcome the British, capture the fort, and seize armaments for use in the Siege of Boston.
As outposts were few and far between in those days, the general store evolved into an all purpose stagecoach stop, which included overnight accommodations and a tavern. The inn operated under the crest of a red lion, said to symbolize the British Crown, waving a green tail, indicating sympathy for American independence. This was during the Revolutionary War after all. While the original crest’s symbolism would be largely lost on us today, a modified version is still used prominently at the inn, a nod to it’s long and illustrious history.
Following the Revolutionary War, Stockbridge would become the headquarters for a group of soldiers protesting burdensome post war taxation, lead by Daniel Shays. The inn was taken over during this time by Shays’ rebels, who were preparing to overthrow the government. The group would grow to over four thousand members before marching on the United States Armory at Springfield in 1787, where they unsuccessfully attempted to seize the arsenal. Thwarted, members then fled to Vermont to avoid prosecution. Nevertheless, the rebellion was influential, worrying George Washington out of retirement, and impacting language in the United States Constitution.
By the mid 1800s, the railroad had arrived in the Berkshire’s. No longer isolated from the coast, Stockbridge became a popular destination for wealthy New Yorkers, offering a summer alternative to Newport. The Guilded Age saw the construction of several grand estates around town, many of which still stand today. During this era the inn, now owned by the Heaton family, was ambitiously expanded. In 1866, its signature front porch was added; by 1884 the inn could accommodate over 100 guests.
It was during this era Mert Plumb, sister of owner Hiram Heaton, started to decorate the inn using early American artifacts and antique furniture. She was known to search the countryside for appropriate items, and had a standing offer of $1.00 paid for antique mirrors. Many of these items remain on display at the inn, including an extensive teapot collection.
As was bound to happen during this era, tragedy struck on August 31, 1896, when a fire started in the pastry kitchen. The inn was nearly destroyed, but the legendary antique collection was saved. The property was immediately rebuilt, and less than eight months later, on April 30, 1897, the inn was again open for business. The rebuilt structure boasted modern amenities the original building lacked, including an 1897 Otis Birdcage Elevator, that is still operational.
Following prohibition, the inn reestablished it’s tavern, and started serving alcohol for the first time in 90 years. It once again became a popular destination, and hosted five presidents, including Cleveland, McKinley, both Roosevelts, and Coolidge. Many film stars also visited during this era, attracted by Summer Stock theater, including Gloria Swanson, who kept an entire suite of rooms. They even have one of her impossibly small shoes on display, which I can’t imagine fitting a modern foot.
In 1934, the underground Lion’s Den was opened, offering another alternative for thirsty travelers. It is a very cozy space, with murals on the walls, low timber ceilings and a large fireplace. It has a lovely retro vibe, and offers music on the weekends. It is decidedly less formal than the main dining room.
In 1955, following the death of his father, Heaton Treadway sold the inn to Byrne Bauer, ending the 90 year Heaton family ownership era. This transition did not end well. At least not for Bauer. After an extensive renovation, he attempted to keep the inn open year round. The endeavor failed, bankrupted poor Bauer, and the deed reverted back to Treadway. In 1960, Treadway once again sold the inn, this time to Robert Wheeler, who attempted to convert the stately old inn to a motor lodge. This also did not go over well, and by 1968 the inn was slated for demolition; in its place, a gas station was to be built.
Fortunately, local residents Jack and Jane Fitzpatrick stepped in, and bought the inn. Founders of the mail order business Country Curtains, they planned to use the inn as office space. However, after they purchased the property, they became awed by its long and storied history; they could not in good faith alter the old gal. The inn would remain open, narrowly escaping destruction during an era when so many other historic treasures were lost.
After an extensive remodel, the Red Lion was once again open for business. The antiques that survived the fire so many years ago would remain on display, an integral part of the interior design. Throughout the 1970s, the Fitzpatrick’s purchased properties around the picturesque town, converting them to guestshouses, expanding the appeal of the old inn.
The town was so picturesque, Norman Rockwell had a studio on Main Street for many years; indeed, local color was featured prominently in several of his paintings. There is a fabulous museum of his work in town, which you should not miss. There are also several historic points of interest in town to visit, including the gilded age summer cottage Naumkeag, and the Mission House, which looks exactly like you would imagine a colonial era house looking, even if a few liberties were taken when it was restored. The town is wonderfully walkable, just watch out for traffic, which is a bit crazy these days.
But, back to the Red Lion; both of the Fitzpatrick’s have now passed, but their daughter retains ownership of the inn. The rooms have been recently updated, but retain a rustic charm. Although renovated, many original features remain such as sloped floors, transom windows, and a confusing maze of hallways, the hallmark of any hotel built in stages. It remains an antique lovers dream, with unexpected items located throughout the property. One case even held china from the Hotel Del Coronado, one of my favorite historic hotels ever.
I have visited the inn both in the early fall and in the winter. Despite being superbly photogenic at Christmas, the experience is much nicer in the fall. You can actually sit on the front porch rockers, and enjoy a stroll around town. The inn has a lovely dining courtyard, as well as a heated outdoor pool.
Conversely, I could not feel my face in the winter. I am pretty sure you would perish if you sat on the porch. Winter is punishingly cold in the Berkshires, and many of the attractions shutter for the season. That said, the lobby fireplace is impossibly cozy, and the inn beyond quaint all dolled up in its holiday finest. Main Street indeed looks like a Rockwell painting. However, it was impossibly cold, and difficult to enjoy. Unless you are from Fargo, I suggest a visit during the warmer months.
The Red Lion Inn is truly a place for people who love history, love historic inns, and understand preservation is an ongoing task. It is great fun to poke around the halls, and explore the past. For those that prefer modern hotels, absolutely stay at one of the newer chain establishments off the highway. If you want historic and are feeling flush, go with Canyon Ranch or Wheatleigh; they are both on my bucket list, should I make it back to the area and have an obscene amount of money to spend on accommodations. Otherwise, the Red Lion is perfect.
One Comment
Esmé
I was just reading about the luckless Byrne Bauer and what an amazingly generous person he was–he opened up the entire Red Lion to all the survivors of the huge Shadowbrook fire at a moment’s notice in 1956.
The link to an online copy of the book: https://sjnen.org/Document.Doc?id=280
The last chapter of the book is called “The Red Lion” and how important the Red Lion and Byrne Bauer were to the community.