Watkins Glen State Park- Watkins Glen, NY
I am conflicted about Watkins Glen. Without question, it is absolutely stunning. It is an absolute embarrassment of natural beauty; the geology and hydrology is fascinating. It is also obscenely crowded. Quite possibly the most crowded park I have ever visited, including the big national parks that everyone complains about being overcrowded. We arrived at opening, which did not help much. A crushing river of people, working their way up and down slippery steps, through dark tunnels. It was a very slow moving mass of humanity.
That said, the park has 19 waterfalls, and is a geologic wonder, so you should absolutely still visit. The gorge trail is by far the most dramatic, thus the most crowded. You can take the gorge trail down to the Mile Point Bridge, then return via the Indian Trail or the South Rim Trail, which tend to be a lot less congested. Along the Gorge Trail, the first landmark you encounter is a rough cut tunnel in the gorge wall, remnants of a mill that was located in the parking lot area; water was diverted through the tunnel in the mid 1800s, and used to power the flour mill’s water wheel. While the wooden chute is long gone, the tunnel remains as a reminder of the prehistoric gorge’s more recent past.
Just around the corner is the first of two waterfalls you can walk under, which is always dramatic and magical; here, the soft shale has worn away, leaving the more resistant sandstone behind. The gorge downstream of the Cavern Cascasde is very narrow, and lush, with several deep pools.
The trail then heads through a tunnel, and past the Narrows, before the Glen of Pools area unfolds. Several cascades empty into pothole pools, that beckon for a quick plunge. But you can’t swim here, so just take a few photos and move along, because one of the most scenic areas of the park is right around the corner.
Most of the pictures you have ever seen of Watkins Glen were taken in this area. Lush and green, it is absolutely otherworldly. The stone walkway travels under a horsetail fall; a fairytale bridge spans the gorge. It is impossibly beautiful.
Make sure to take your time while walking under the waterfall. Perhaps not so much if you visit in the fall, but it is quite refreshing and peaceful in the summer. I imagine it might be a bit brisk at other times of the year. From this vantage, you have an excellent view of the stone bridge.
Just upstream from Rainbow falls, the gorge narrows and darkens. Spiral Gorge is heavily mossed, with sheer walls and dripping springs. Dappled and drowsy, this is one of the loveliest areas of the park. At this point, you are close to the end of the gorge. At Mile Point Bridge you can catch Indian Trail, the north rim trail that takes you back to the parking area. Make sure to cross the Suspension Bridge at the trail end, as it offers excellent gorge views.
So, go early, go off season, or go in the middle of the week. Whatever you can do to avoid the crowds. It is an absolutely stunning state park, but does suffer from its popularity. It will absolutely be a hike you never forget.
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