Oxford Hotel- Denver, CO

As the building boom continues all around Denver, the desirable LoDo area is never without a construction crane or two. Thankfully, in addition to the overwhelming amount of new condos, they have restored several older historic properties, such as Union Station. An active rail station, with train service to the airport, it also now contains an impressive collection of shops, bars, and restaurants. Just steps away from the venerable old hub, sits the unassuming Oxford, the oldest hotel in town.

Choosing a historic hotel in Denver is not easy; they have several exceptional properties, including one of my all time favorites, The Brown Palace. But, for those looking for something more laid back in Lower Downtown, the Oliver is your place. Built in 1891, by Brown Palace architect Frank E. Edbrooke, it was the first modern hotel in the city. Commissioned by brewer Adolph Zang, the biggest pre-prohibition producer in the Rockies, it was built to serve train travelers arriving at nearby Union Station. It boasted all the latest technology of the day, and even included its own power plant, which provided electricity, steam heat, and gas lighting to the hotel.

Although certainly not as extravagant as The Brown Palace, it was quite luxurious, with marble floors, frescoed walls, silver chandeliers, stained glass, and a bathroom on every floor. Light and air flooded into the hotel, as guest rooms wrapped around a central light well. Built to be self contained, there was an onsite barber, library, pharmacy, dining room, Western Union office, stable, and saloon.

The hotel proved to be widely popular, hosting over 35,000 guests a year. By 1902, they needed to expand; a two story, red brick addition was added behind the hotel, trimmed with pink sandstone and terra cotta to match the original building.

In 1906, $20,000 was spent to remodel the hotel, adding the mezzanine with its monogrammed iron banister, marble wainscotting, and a cafe. In 1912, a five story annex was added on 17th Street, just through the onetime Denver icon, the Welcome Arch, which greeted travelers arriving at Union Station. Sadly lost to time, the arch with over 2000 light bulbs was deemed a traffic hazard in 1931, and torn down.

In the 1930s, the hotel was again renovated, this time, in the Art Deco style. An elaborate cocktail lounge called the “Cruise Room” was added, which featured hand carved panels by artist Alley Henson. It officially opened the day after prohibition ended, although it is rumored it operated as a speakeasy before that time. Modeled after a lounge on the RMS Queen Mary, it featured a long narrow room, with red lighting shining down on chrome trim. The bar still exists, and received a full restoration in 2012. Even if you do not stay at the hotel, you cannot miss this space. It has an absolutely amazing Art Deco design, and the drinks are fantastic.

While the hotel remained busy throughout World War II, mostly due to troops arriving by train, the popularity of Lower Downtown waned in later years, due in no small part to the decline in train travel. The area took on a seediness that stuck around until Larimer Square was revitalized in the 1960s. During this time the hotel was considered something of a flop house, which is a delightful expression that my grandmother would have used.

In 1979, the hotel was sold, and closed for renovations. During this process, many of the hotels grander features were found hidden under dropped ceilings, behind false walls, and stashed in the basement. After three years of extensive renovations, costing over $12 million, the hotel reopened on June 19, 1983. At this time, the adjacent annex building was converted to office space.

In 2009, the the hotel was once again renovated, and an iron arch was added over the door, a replica of an original feature lost to time. The rooms were refreshed, and public spaces were updated. Overlooking 17th Street, our upgraded room was full of fun original features, with Art Deco influences everywhere. At certain times, they hold Whiskey tastings in the lobby; a fairly reasonably priced bottle is also placed in your room. The Denver outpost of Urban Farmer is located just off the lobby, which always serves up a tasty steak.

An all around great hotel, its original charm shines bright, while still feeling updated. It is not frozen in time, but retains enough historic detail throughout to feel authentic. Well done.